Marseille

On the “fjords” of southern France

Surrounded by imposing cliffs and with its crystal-clear, turquoise waters, the Calanque d'En Vau near Cassis is a jewel in the Calanques National Park.(Bild: janoka82 - stock.adobe.com)

Anyone who has not yet mastered savoir-vivre - the art of enjoying life - has the best opportunity to learn it in the hinterland of Marseille. On my trip, I discover the impressive Calanques, explore the roots of the famous game of pétanque and "meet" Alma Mahler-Werfel.

Café au lait, pain au chocolat and an impressive view of Cap Canaille, the highest cliff in France at almost 400 meters - my trip couldn't start any better. Here in Cassis, I enjoy my first view of the Calanques - the fjord-like, steeply sloping, often picturesque limestone bays along the Mediterranean coast that stretch from Marseille to here. They are home to unique flora and fauna, which you can discover while hiking and climbing in the Calanques National Park.

I explore the area and the vineyards around Cassis on an e-bike. At the La Dona Tigana vineyard, owned by former national soccer player Jean Tigana, I taste white and rosé wine. Just enough to make it back safely by bike, where I dine at Café Liautaud with a view of the tranquil harbor. Having only been here for a few hours, I have long since arrived.

The Hotel La Magdeleine in the evening sun(Bild: Mario Aberl)

Cuisine, hiking and traditional ball games
After a short drive, I reach the Hotel La Magdeleine in Gémenos, where I spend the night. The plane trees in front of the house radiate the tranquillity that I will find here. My idea of a romantic Provence vacation becomes reality: an old, chic and tastefully furnished manor house with just 28 rooms, extensive grounds and a small pool. At dinner, you can taste with every bite that Maître Mathias Dandine, who runs the house with his wife, rightly has a Michelin star.

I'm pleased that I've already done the cycling when I cycle along the Route des Crêtes mountain road to La Ciotat the next day. It's remarkable how racing cyclists struggle up the 15-kilometre-long winding mountain road. What I know before the cyclists do: the fantastic view of the sea and the Calanques will compensate them for their efforts.

Walk in the port of La Ciotat(Bild: Mario Aberl)

In La Ciotat, where oil tankers used to be produced and luxury yachts are now serviced, I meet hiking guide Romuald. He takes me to the large botanical garden Parc du Mugel. I continue to the Notre-Dame de la Garde chapel, from where I can enjoy a magnificent panoramic view. Cool off with a swim in the beautiful Calanques de Figuerolles bay and a glass of chilled white wine.

INFO

GENERAL INFORMATION:
www.france.fr
provence-alpes-cotedazur.com/en

GETTING THERE: Direct flight Vienna-Marseille with Austrian Airlines or overnight train Vienna-Paris and onward by TGV to Marseille

HOTEL TIPS:
Hotel La Magdeleine: www.relais-magdeleine.com/en/

Hotel & Spa du Castellet: https: //www.hotelducastellet.net/en/

A trip is particularly recommended outside the high season.

During the following city tour, I learn that the Eden Théâtre is the oldest movie theater in the world that is still in operation. And I get to try out for myself what I used to learn about in French lessons: the game of pétanque, which was invented in La Ciotat and is a variant of boules. Vincent "Enzo" Balbi is waiting at the Boulodrome Jules Lenoir. He is the president of the pétanque club, explains the history of the game and lets me try it myself. In the evening, I am surprised by fireworks - what a fitting summary of what I have experienced so far.

My last day takes me to Sanary-sur-Mer, which was the exile home of writers such as Aldous Huxley and Lion Feuchtwanger in the 1930s. Franz Werfel and Alma Mahler-Werfel were also here. I pass the small house with turrets where they lived on my tour with Ina Berato. Afterwards, I have time to stroll through the Sanary market, where the smell of cheese, bread, fruit, vegetables and fish mingle.

In bright colors: fruit and vegetables at the Sanary market(Bild: Mario Aberl)

Finally, I stop for an excellent lunch at the exclusive Hotel & Spa du Castellet in the village of the same name. It is located on the edge of a pine forest opposite the Paul Ricard motor racing circuit, which even has a small airport. I take a golf taster lesson with trainer Simon. After a few tee shots with my backside in the right position, he attests to my talent. I'm still deciding whether to start. As the sun sets, I head for the airport towards the fiery red sky. With a lot of "luggage", because my love of France has grown considerably.